Georgia Freshwater Fishing Tackle Guide for Crappie, Bluegill, Bass & Catfish

Georgia’s lakes and ponds offer year-round fishing for crappie, bluegill, bass, and catfish. This guide provides a comprehensive tackle list organized by species and gear category, with budget-friendly and premium suggestions. Whether you’re casting from a dock, shoreline, or the occasional boat trip, the following recommendations will help you select practical, effective gear for year-round freshwater fishing in Georgia.

Rods & Reels

Below is a quick reference for rod and reel setups by species (from ultralight panfish rigs to heavy catfish tackle). Detailed recommendations follow.

Species	Rod (Power & Length)	Reel Type/Size	Suggested Line
Crappie (and Bluegill) – Panfish	Ultralight or Light action; ~5–7 ft length (sensitive tip)	Small spinning reel (Size 1000–2500) or spincast (e.g. Zebco 33 Micro)	4–8 lb monofilament or fluorocarbon (or 8–10 lb braid with leader)
Bass (Largemouth/Spotted)	Medium to Medium-Heavy power; ~6’6″–7′ (spinning or casting)	Spinning reel (2500–3000 size) for finesse; Baitcasting reel for power techniques	10–15 lb mono/fluoro for general use; 30–50 lb braid in heavy cover
Catfish (Channel/Blue/Flathead)	Medium-Heavy to Heavy; ~7–9 ft (stout backbone)	Large spinning reel (4000–6000) or round baitcaster (e.g. Abu 6500)	12–20 lb mono for smaller cats; 30–50 lb braid or 20–50 lb mono for trophy flatheads/blues

Panfish (Crappie & Bluegill) Rods and Reels

For crappie and bluegill, a lightweight rod-and-reel combo is key to detecting bites. Ultralight spinning outfits in the 5–7 foot range are ideal. A sensitive ultralight rod with 2–4 lb test line lets you feel even the tiniest nibble. For example, the Daiwa Presso 5’6″ ultralight rod paired with a Shimano Sienna 1000 spinning reel is a highly sensitive budget setup that excels with light lures. Popular budget combos include the Ugly Stik GX2 ultralight spinning combo (~5’6″ rod) known for toughness and good sensitivity. Even a simple Zebco 33 Micro spincast combo on a light rod (e.g. Zebco Slingshot series) can effectively catch panfish; experts note a 4 lb mono line on such a microlite rig casts well and detects soft crappie strikes.

For a premium panfish setup, consider a dedicated high-quality rod like the St. Croix Panfish Series (6–7′ light) or G. Loomis Trout/Panfish rod paired with a smooth 1000-size reel (e.g. Shimano Stradic 1000). These upscale rigs offer superb sensitivity and ultralight weight (helpful for techniques like “dock shooting” crappie jigs under docks). However, even experts admit you don’t need to break the bank – a $30–$60 combo can serve you well for crappie and bream.

Key Rod/Reel Tips (Panfish): Use spinning reels with a smooth drag (size 1000–2000) or a trusted spincast for kids and beginners. Ultralight rods ensure you feel the subtle bites, which is critical since crappie often bite lightly or “slurp” the bait. A visible hi-vis monofilament can help detect line twitches from light bites (many crappie anglers use 4–6 lb hi-vis line to watch the line jump when a crappie hits). Keep the setup light and balanced – panfish don’t require heavy gear, and a lighter rod makes fishing more fun by bending even on small fish.

Bass Rods and Reels

Bass fishing is versatile, so ideally have a couple of setups: one spinning and one baitcasting. A medium-power spinning rod ~6’6″–7′ with a 2500–3000 size spinning reel is a great all-purpose choice for bass in lakes and ponds. This handles finesse techniques (like weightless worms or drop-shot) and lighter lures. For example, the Abu Garcia Veritas spinning combo has been rated among top picks for bass – offering a quality rod and reel pre-matched for freshwater bass fishing. Another beginner-friendly choice is the Pflueger President spinning combo, praised for its smooth reel and reliable performance at a modest price. On a tighter budget, the Shimano FX 6’6″ Medium combo (or similar) is an affordable workhorse that Field & Stream named “Best Budget” spinning combo.

For larger lures and techniques like jigging, frogging, or spinnerbaits, a medium-heavy baitcasting rod (6’6″–7′) with a baitcast reel provides more power and accuracy. An Abu Garcia Black Max baitcaster combo (6’6″ MH) is a common budget recommendation for new bass anglers (often <$80 for rod and reel). On the premium end, a St. Croix Mojo Bass or Dobyns Fury rod paired with a quality baitcast reel (e.g. Shimano Curado or Daiwa Tatula) offers excellent sensitivity and durability for serious anglers. Baitcasters handle heavier lines and lures well, which is useful in Georgia’s heavy cover (like weedbeds or timber) where you may need strong line to pull a bass out.

Key Rod/Reel Tips (Bass): Choose medium power spinning gear for general use and medium-heavy baitcasting for heavy cover or larger lures. Look for reels with a smooth drag (important for surging largemouths) and consider gear ratio: a higher speed reel (7:1 or above) on a baitcaster helps with fast retrieves (e.g. buzzbaits), while a moderate speed is fine for all-purpose use. Budget vs Premium: A well-known durable budget rod is the Ugly Stik GX2 (6’6″ Medium) spinning rod – nearly unbreakable and good for beginners (though a bit heavier). In contrast, premium graphite rods (St. Croix, G.Loomis, etc.) are lighter and more sensitive, which can increase your strike detection and casting accuracy (at a higher cost). Many anglers start with a budget combo and upgrade as they get serious.

Catfish Rods and Reels

Catfish require heavier tackle, especially if targeting larger blues or flatheads. A 7–8 foot medium-heavy rod with a sturdy backbone will handle most lake and pond catfish. Spinning or baitcasting reels can work, as long as they hold sufficient heavy line and have a strong drag. A popular, affordable choice is the Ugly Stik Catfish combo (a 7′ medium-heavy Ugly Stik rod with a spinning reel) – known for its toughness and “bulletproof” guides. The fiberglass blank of the Ugly Stik provides a good balance of sensitivity and legendary durability, making it a great value for catfishing. Another budget option is the Zebco Big Cat XT combo, which in 2024 was rated “Best Overall” catfish combo for being super rugged and built for big fish.

If you’re after trophy cats or want premium gear, consider a dedicated catfish rod like the Whisker Seeker 7’6″ MH or St. Croix Mojo Cat rod, paired with a high-capacity reel. For big blues/flatheads, many anglers favor round baitcasting reels (e.g. Abu Garcia Ambassadeur C3 6500) which have strong drag systems and large line capacity. On spinning side, a tough saltwater-rated reel like the Penn Fierce IV 6000 or Shimano Spheros 8000 can handle giant catfish (Outdoor Life’s “Best High End” catfish combo featured the Shimano Spheros for its robust build).

Key Rod/Reel Tips (Catfish): Look for rods with medium-heavy or heavy power and a bit of flex in the tip (to detect bites) but plenty of backbone to fight large fish. Fiberglass or composite rods are common for catfish due to their durability (graphite rods can be more brittle if high-sticking a big fish). Reels should have a smooth, strong drag (at least 15–20 lb of drag for big fish) and at least 150–200 yards of line capacity of heavy line. Baitclicker features on reels can be useful for catfishing – this lets line peel out under light tension when a catfish runs with the bait (common on Abu Garcia Ambassadeur reels). For casual catfishing of smaller channel cats, even a heavy-duty bass spinning reel (4000 size) on a medium-heavy rod will do. But if trophy catfish are a possibility, investing in a purpose-built catfish rig is wise to avoid gear failure.

Fishing Line Selection

Using the appropriate line type and strength is crucial for each species. Line impacts casting, presentation, and your ability to land fish around cover.

Crappie & Bluegill Line

Light line yields more bites and better lure action for panfish. Monofilament or fluorocarbon in the 2–6 lb test range is ideal. In clear water or when fish are finicky, 4 lb line is a sweet spot – it’s thin and less visible, yet strong enough for decent-sized crappie. Anglers often notice that dropping from 6 lb to 4 lb mono increases crappie bites and makes casting small jigs easier. For example, one Georgia crappie angler insists on 4 lb mono for slip-float and jig presentations, noting that 6 lb line was “just too heavy” for delicate crappie bites, whereas 4 lb improved casting distance and strike detection.

Hi-visibility monofilament (fluorescent yellow/green) is popular for crappie because it’s easier for the angler to see slight twitches, and crappie aren’t line-shy in murky water. You can tie a clear fluorocarbon leader if needed in very clear conditions. Fluorocarbon line (4–6 lb) offers low visibility and higher abrasion resistance (useful if crappie are holding in brush piles), though it can be a bit stiffer than mono in ultra-light diameters. Monofilament has more stretch, which can actually help when fighting a larger fish on light tackle, acting as a shock absorber to prevent the hook from tearing out of a crappie’s soft mouth.

For bluegill and other small sunfish, you can go even lighter if targeting only panfish – 2–4 lb test mono is common. A quality 4 lb mono (e.g. Berkley Trilene or Stren) balances thin diameter with enough strength to handle the occasional 1–2 lb bass that might grab your bait while bluegill fishing. If you’re specifically chasing big “shellcracker” or hand-sized bluegill near heavy vegetation, you might bump up to 6 lb line, but generally lighter is better since bluegills have excellent eyesight and can be line-shy. Fluorocarbon leaders of 4–6 lb can be used on a main line of 6 lb braid if you prefer braid’s sensitivity (some panfish anglers use a thin braid like 8 lb test/2 lb diameter with a mono/fluoro leader – though this is more common in deep water or ice fishing scenarios to feel light bites).

In summary, stick to 4 lb test as a versatile choice for crappie and bluegill in Georgia ponds/lakes. You’ll get more bites and have an easier time presenting tiny baits naturally. Always check your line for nicks after catching a few fish or rubbing against structure – light line can get weakened quickly, so retie your hook or jig if you see any abrasion.

Bass Line

Bass fishing demands a broader range of line strengths and types because you may encounter anything from open-water conditions to thick weeds or timber.

For general bass fishing in lakes and ponds, 8–12 lb monofilament or fluorocarbon is a good all-around line weight. If you plan to use a lot of single-hook lures (worms, jigs, etc.) in clear water, fluorocarbon in the 10–15 lb range is excellent – it’s nearly invisible underwater and has low stretch for solid hooksets. Monofilament in a similar strength (10–12 lb) is also effective, particularly for moving lures like spinnerbaits or topwater plugs where a bit of stretch can prevent the hook from tearing out. Mono also floats, which is beneficial for topwater lures (it keeps a walking bait or popper from getting pulled under).

In Georgia’s often stained or murky lake water, you can get away with slightly heavier line since visibility is less an issue. 12 lb mono/fluoro is a common choice for crankbaits and general use – heavy enough to land a good bass but still thin enough to get decent lure action and casting distance.

When fishing around heavy cover (weedy farm ponds, lily pads, brush, timber), braided line is a game-changer. 30–50 lb braid (equivalent diameter of ~8–12 lb mono) is often used on baitcasting setups for flipping jigs into brush or working frogs through lily pads. “You simply cannot beat the strength of braided line when pulling a bass from cover” – braid has the highest strength-to-diameter and zero stretch, allowing you to horse a big bass out of vegetation. For example, a 50 lb braid (like Sufix 832 or PowerPro) is a common choice for frogging in grass mats or for a Carolina rig mainline. Braid’s drawback is visibility (it’s opaque), but in thick cover or muddy water that doesn’t matter. Many anglers tie a fluorocarbon leader (say 15–20 lb fluoro leader attached to 40 lb braid) when they need abrasion resistance around rocks or a clearer presentation in sparse cover.

Line selection by technique: If you’re throwing topwater lures (poppers, walking baits) in open water, monofilament is actually preferred (its stretch and buoyancy help keep fish hooked on a violent strike, and it won’t make a floating lure sink). For deep diving crankbaits, 10–12 lb fluorocarbon helps the bait reach depth (fluoro sinks and has thin diameter) and withstands abrasion from hitting bottom or wood. For spinnerbaits or chatterbaits, 14–17 lb mono/fluoro is often used to handle their vibration and possible collisions with cover. If you’re unsure, braid with a leader on spinning reels is a versatile setup – for example, 15 lb braid with a 8–10 lb fluorocarbon leader gives you casting distance and sensitivity for finesse baits, with the leader providing invisibility and some stretch to avoid shock break-offs.

Always match your line to the environment: in open, clear waters go lighter and invisible; in thick cover or stained water, go heavier. And check Georgia regulations or lake guides if special considerations exist (some trophy bass lakes might require catch-and-release, so using heavier line to quickly land and release fish can be ecologically responsible).

Catfish Line

Catfish line choices hinge on the size of fish you target. Georgia has channel catfish (commonly 1–10 lbs in ponds), as well as much larger blue and flathead catfish in certain lakes/rivers that can exceed 50–60 lbs. For the smaller eating-size cats, medium line is fine; for trophy cats, heavy line is a must.

For channel cats and bullheads in lakes/ponds, 8–14 lb monofilament is recommended. Monofilament in this class is affordable, has some stretch (which helps keep a thrashing catfish from ripping the hook out), and is easier to manage when using simple rigs under a bobber or on the bottom. The Georgia DNR suggests 8–14 lb test and medium hooks for channel catfish, which aligns well with typical mono line ratings. You can lean toward the higher end (12–14 lb) if fishing around rocks or docks where the line might rub, or if you know 10+ lb fish are present. Many catfish anglers use monofilament mainline with a leader – for example, 12 lb mono main line and a leader of 14–17 lb (since the leader near the hook may need extra abrasion resistance against rough catfish mouths or structure).

For large blue or flathead catfish, heavy line is a must. You’ll want 20–50 lb test braid or mono for these brutes. Braid in the 30–50 lb class is very popular for big cats because of its strength and low stretch, allowing solid hooksets with large hooks. However, big catfish have abrasive mouths and often live around rocks/wood; braid has lower abrasion resistance than mono, so some anglers prefer 30–40 lb monofilament or use a heavy mono leader with braid. The GA Wildlife Resources Division explicitly recommends at least “20 to 50-pound test braid or monofilament” when targeting trophy blues/flatheads. For example, one might spool up a 40 lb braid mainline and tie a 50 lb mono leader above the hook – the mono leader can handle scraping on logs or a flathead’s sandpapery jaws, while the braid mainline gives cutting power and capacity.

If you’re unsure what size catfish you’ll encounter, a good middle-ground is 17–20 lb mono or 50 lb braid. As a real-world anecdote, an angler landed a 13 lb channel cat on 10 lb test line – but that was pushing limits. Don’t risk a monster breaking off; it’s better to go heavier if trophy fish swim in your waters. Keep in mind thicker lines are harder to cast, so if you’re fishing smaller ponds for modest cats, there’s no need for rope-like line – you’ll catch more with moderately lighter tackle.

Line Visibility: Catfish aren’t typically line-shy, especially in the often muddy or dark waters they frequent, so line color isn’t critical. Many catfish anglers choose high-visibility line (bright orange or yellow) so they can see their line at night or detect subtle movements. Feel free to use braid with a mono/fluoro leader if you want the best of both – strong mainline and a clear leader near the bait.

Hooks, Weights, Bobbers, and Terminal Tackle

Having a range of terminal tackle (hooks, sinkers, floats, etc.) will allow you to rig appropriately for each species. Below, we break down the essential terminal tackle for crappie, bluegill, bass, and catfish, including recommended hook sizes and styles, sinker types, and floats.

Crappie Terminal Tackle

Hooks: Crappie have relatively thin, papery mouths (“papermouths”), so you want thin-wire hooks that penetrate easily. The optimal hook size depends on bait, but generally #2, #4, or #6 hooks cover most crappie situations. A good all-around choice is a #4 Aberdeen hook for live minnows or jig heads – #4 is small enough for crappie’s mouth but strong enough to hold a larger fish. If crappie are being finicky or you’re using tiny baits (like small minnows or insect larvae), drop down to a #6 or #8 hook, which are less likely to spook cautious fish. Conversely, when targeting slab crappie with larger minnows or 2–3″ soft plastics, a #2 hook provides a better bite and won’t bend out easily on a big fish.

Long-shank Aberdeen hooks (often gold-plated ones, e.g. Eagle Claw gold Aberdeen) are classic for crappie minnows – the long shank makes it easier to remove from a crappie’s mouth and is perfect for threading small minnows or worms. One Georgia crappie angler noted that a plain gold #6 Aberdeen hook with a minnow (“minner on a gold hook”) has been a family secret – the flash of the gold hook can even attract crappie in murky water. It’s wise to keep an assortment from #8 up to #1/0 in your panfish tackle. Some specialized crappie hooks (like sickle hooks in size 4 or 2) offer a wider gap and can improve hook-ups, and Tru-Turn hooks (with a cam-action bend) are another option that can increase hook sets by rotating into the fish’s mouth.

Jig Heads: If you plan to use artificial crappie jigs (see Lures section), stock jig heads in 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz weights with appropriate hook sizes (usually #4 or #2 hooks on those jig heads). A 1/16 oz jig head with a #4 hook is a crappie standard – it can be used alone or under a float. Heavier 1/8 oz jig heads help get deeper or combat wind/current, while tiny 1/32 oz (or even 1/64) are great for slow fall in shallow or when fish are extra finicky (especially in cold water). Make sure your jig hooks are sharp; crappie often inhale a jig lightly, so a sharp hook maximizes hookup on subtle bites.

Weights: The primary weights for crappie fishing are small split shot and slip-sinker rigs. Split shot (BB to #5 size) can be pinched on the line to sink live baits or feather-light jigs slowly. For example, when using a minnow under a bobber, you might attach a couple of split shots ~6–12 inches above the hook to get the bait down to the desired depth. Carry an assortment of small split shot – these also come in handy to fine-tune the weighting of a float (adding just enough weight that the bobber sits correctly).

For deeper crappie (especially in winter or summer), a slip sinker rig is useful. Use a slip bobber and a sliding egg sinker (1/8–1/4 oz) above a swivel, then a leader to the hook or jig. This slip-float rig allows you to present baits at a precise depth while still being able to cast. One recommended approach is using a slip bobber setup to suspend a jig or minnow at depth and twitch it around submerged brush piles. Many tackle kits have ready-made crappie slip float rig components (bobber stops, beads, etc.).

Floats/Bobbers: Slip bobbers (sliding floats) are invaluable for crappie, as they let you fish deep water from shore or a dock by sliding to the bobber stop on the cast. Choose a slender slip float or pencil float that’s just buoyant enough to support your bait – too large a bobber offers resistance and crappie may drop the bait if they feel it. Thill™ floats, for instance, make excellent thin slip bobbers for crappie. Fixed clip-on bobbers (round red-and-white bobbers) also work in shallow water, but once you need to fish more than ~3–4 feet deep, a slip float is much easier.

For dock shooting or casting jigs, you often don’t use a bobber – you cast and retrieve the jig with a slow swim or hop. But for night fishing or during the spawn, a float with a minnow or jig set 1–2 feet down can be deadly around docks and shoreline cover. It’s wise to have small foam or balsa floats in sizes from ~¾” to 1.5″ diameter. A spring stick float (pencil float with a spring attachment) is great for shallow brush – it’s sensitive and easy to cast.

Other Terminal Tackle: Small barrel swivels (size 12 or 14) are useful if you rig a slip-sinker to reduce line twist. Also, pack some jig spinners (like the safety-pin style spinner arms that you can attach to a jig head to make a beetle spin) – while not exactly terminal tackle, they are accessories that can convert a jig into a spinnerbait for crappie or bream. Keep a few beads (for slip rigs), bobber stops, and extra crappie jig heads in various colors (plain lead, red, chartreuse heads are common).

Lastly, an often overlooked crappie accessory: bait attractants. Crappie nibblets or Berkley Crappie Nibbles (dough bait) can be tipped on hooks or jigs to add scent. Not terminal tackle per se, but worth keeping in the box – on slow days a nibblet on the jig can trigger more bites.

Bluegill (Bream) Terminal Tackle

Hooks: Bluegill have small mouths, so use small hooks. The best hook sizes for bluegill are typically between #6 and #10, with #8 being a go-to size in most situations. A #8 long-shank hook (like an Aberdeen) is perfect for worms and crickets – the long shank makes it easier to remove from a bluegill’s mouth, and #8 is small enough for even hand-size bream to take in. If you notice the fish are all small or stealing bait, drop to a #10 hook for better hookup on tiny mouths. Conversely, if you’re catching and releasing and want to avoid gut-hooking, using a slightly bigger hook like #6 can help (bluegill are less likely to swallow a #6 as deeply). Some anglers even use tiny circle hooks (size 8 or 10 circle hooks) for bluegill to avoid deep hooking – these will often hook the fish in the corner of the mouth.

Classic baitholder hooks (short shank with barbs on the shank) in size 6–8 work well for worms, as the little barbs hold the worm in place during casts. But many Georgia pond anglers will tell you a simple gold Aberdeen #8 loaded with a wriggling red worm is hard to beat. Keep a variety: #10 for cold weather or small bait, #8 as all-purpose, #6 if bigger “shellcracker” or other sunfish might bite. If targeting larger panfish like shellcrackers (redear sunfish), they can handle #4 or #6 hooks because they often take bigger baits like worms on the bottom – but for average bluegill, #8 is perfect.

Weights: Bluegill fishing is typically done with minimal weight. Split shot in very small sizes (size #7, #5, BB) are commonly used. Often you just need one small split shot 6–12 inches above the hook to slowly sink your bait. Bluegill often bite best as the bait falls naturally, so avoid over-weighting it. Carry a split shot assortment and use the tiniest amount of lead necessary to cast and get the bait down. If fish are shallow (e.g. during spawning beds in spring), you might use no weight at all – just a bare hook with a worm under a float allows a very slow, natural fall, which can entice bites from cautious fish.

Floats: A small, sensitive bobber is a must for bluegill. Use the smallest float that will hold your bait. For a single pinch of worm or a cricket, a 1″ or ¾″ round bobber is plenty. Even better are pencil floats or slender stick floats, which offer very little resistance when a bluegill takes the bait (making them less likely to drop it). Bluegill often “nibble” and if they feel a heavy float, they may let go. Foam and balsa floats with thin profiles are great for this reason. During the spring spawn, fish shallow (1–3 ft deep) with a small fixed bobber – cast beyond the bedding area and slowly reel it so the bait passes over the beds. You’ll see the bobber twitch or dive when a protective bluegill hits. In summer, bluegill might be deeper (5–10+ ft), where a slip bobber becomes useful to reach those depths (similar to crappie tactics).

Other Tackle: Bluegill can also be caught on the bottom without a float – for that, a small egg sinker (1/8 oz or less) or a few split shot can be used Carolina-rig style above a swivel to a short leader and hook. But in ponds and lakes, the float method is so effective that most bream anglers stick with bobbers.

Keep some small swivels (size 12–14) in your kit – they can be used if you’re rigging a drop shot or to attach a leader. Swivels also help if you use spinners for bluegill, to reduce line twist.

Bass Terminal Tackle

Hooks: Bass fishing involves various hook types depending on bait. For soft plastic worms, lizards, and creature baits, you’ll want worm hooks in the 2/0 to 5/0 range. A 3/0 offset shank worm hook (either the classic offset or an EWG – Extra Wide Gap – style) is a good middle size that pairs well with 6–7″ worms and many creature baits. Use smaller 2/0 for finesse worms or 4″ lizards, and up to 4/0 or 5/0 for big 10″ worms or bulky creature baits. Georgia farm pond anglers often rig a Zoom lizard or worm Texas-style on a 3/0 hook with great success. If you fish tube baits or flipping baits, consider straight-shank flipping hooks (3/0–4/0) with a bait keeper – they can improve hook-up ratios in heavy cover. Wide Gap hooks are excellent for thicker baits like Senko stick worms or flukes, where the extra gap accommodates the plastic body.

For topwater frogs, use specialized frog hooks (often double hooks that come with hollow-bodied frogs) or stout 4/0–5/0 EWG hooks if it’s a toad-style bait. For wacky-rigging stick worms, have some 1/0 or 2/0 octopus or mosquito hooks – their short shank and wide gap hook bass well through the worm body without needing a large hook.

When using live bait for bass (like shiners), a 2/0 circle hook can be a great choice – it tends to hook the bass in the corner of the mouth, making release easier, and you simply reel set (no need for a hard hookset). Some anglers freelining live minnows for bass might use a #1 or 1/0 live bait hook if the bait is small, but for big shiners a 2/0 is standard.

Weights: Bass techniques require a variety of weights:

Bullet Weights (Texas Rig sinkers): Cone-shaped bullet weights in 1/8 oz up to 1/2 oz are used for Texas rigging plastics. In shallow Georgia ponds or when fishing slowly, 1/8–1/4 oz is most common. Use 1/8 oz for a slower fall in shallow water or sparse cover, 3/16–1/4 oz for general use, and heavier 3/8–1/2 oz if you need to punch through vegetation or get a bait down deeper quickly (or if wind/current is an issue). It’s good to carry a range, but your most used will likely be 3/16 and 1/4 oz for plastics in lakes/ponds.
Jig Heads: For bass jig fishing, you’ll use skirted bass jigs which typically come in 1/4 oz, 3/8 oz, 1/2 oz sizes. A 3/8 oz black-and-blue jig is a go-to for many anglers as an all-season bait (just add a craw trailer). Also, shaky head jig hooks (1/8–3/16 oz) are great for finesse worms on the bottom.
Drop Shot weights: If you drop-shot for bass (more common on spotted bass or clear lakes), have some 1/4 oz cylindrical drop-shot weights and size 1 or 1/0 drop-shot hooks.
Split Shot & Misc: It’s worth having some split shot for finesse rigs (mojo rig, split shot rig) to lightly weight a worm. And keep a few nail weights if you wacky rig (to make Neko rigs).

Bobbers: Generally, bobbers aren’t used for artificial lures in bass fishing, but they are used if you fish live bait for bass. A slip bobber big enough to suspend a live shiner or small bluegill can be very effective for catching trophy largemouth (the bobber lets the bait swim naturally at a set depth without snagging bottom). Use a sturdy slip float ~3-4″ long or a large traditional bobber for this purpose, as baitfish can be lively. If targeting bass specifically, many anglers forgo bobbers and either freelining the bait or adding just a pinch of weight so the bait can move freely.

One situation an angler might use a float is with a float-and-fly rig in cold weather – suspending a small hair jig under a bobber for lethargic winter bass. But that’s more specialized. For our purposes, floats aren’t a primary bass tactic except with live bait.

Swivels, Leaders, etc.: It’s useful to have barrel swivels (size 8–10) and beads for making Carolina rigs. A Carolina rig involves a sliding egg sinker (often 1/2 to 3/4 oz for long casts), a bead, swivel, then a leader (1–3 ft) to a hook. If you plan on Carolina-rigging (effective in summer on offshore humps or flats), pack appropriate egg sinkers and beads.

Wire Leaders: Not typically needed for bass (unless you target pickerel or gar bycatch), so usually skip wire as it can deter bites.

Terminal Odds & Ends: Snaps and snap swivels can be handy if you want to change lures quickly (e.g. going from a crankbait to a spoon), but many bass anglers tie direct for maximum action. A pegging tool or bobber stops are great for pegging your bullet weight on a Texas rig (especially flipping heavy cover – pegging keeps the weight next to the bait). Also, consider carrying some o-rings for wacky rigs (to save your Senko worms from tearing) and maybe a few treble hook replacements (size 4, 6) in case a crankbait hook bends or dulls.

Catfish Terminal Tackle

Hooks: Catfish hooks should match the bait size and target fish size. For smaller catfish (channel cats, bullheads), 1/0 to 3/0 hooks are appropriate. A common setup for channel cats is a #2/0 circle hook – this size will handle 1–5 lb channels easily and even bigger. Circles are popular because they tend to hook the fish in the jaw when it moves off with the bait (and you just reel steadily to set). If you prefer J-hooks (standard bait hooks), a 1/0 baitholder or Kahle hook works well with worms, liver, or cut bait for channel cats. Georgia DNR suggests “medium-sized hooks (size 2 to 1/0)” for channel/white cats – so even a #2 (which is smaller than 1/0) could be used for small fish with smaller baits.

For large catfish (blue and flathead), step up to 5/0, 6/0, even 8/0 hooks. Circle hooks in 5/0–8/0 range (e.g. Gamakatsu Octopus Circle 6/0) are excellent for live bait or cut bait targeting 20 lb+ cats. Flatheads often inhale big live baits, so a strong 7/0 circle or a 8/0 Kahle hook gives a good bite. Blue catfish on cut bait also hook well on circles. Make sure any big cat hooks are forged, heavy gauge – cheap light-wire hooks can straighten on a big fish. Brands like Team Catfish, Gamakatsu, or Mustad Demon circles are all reliable.

An old-time favorite for catfish is the Kahle hook (with a wide gap and offset). A 5/0 Kahle can hook even large flatheads yet still catch smaller eaters. Kahles are a bit of a hybrid – you can set them like a J-hook, or let the fish hook itself to some degree. For novice catfishers, circle hooks reduce swallowed hooks; just remember not to jerk the rod, but let the fish load up and then reel.

Weights: Catfish rigs often involve presenting bait on or near the bottom. Common sinkers include:

Egg Sinkers: These are used in a slip-sinker rig (Carolina rig style) for catfish. For lake and pond fishing, weights of 1/2 oz up to 2 oz are typically sufficient. Use just enough weight to hold the bait down in current or to cast the distance needed. In still ponds, a 1/2 or 3/4 oz egg sinker might be plenty to keep your bait near bottom. For rivers or deep water, 1–3 oz might be needed. GA DNR notes using “heavy weights (1–5 oz) to keep bait on the bottom” when going after big blue/flatheads, especially in current.
No-Roll Sinkers: Popular on rivers, these flat sinkers (often 1–3 oz) won’t roll in current. If you fish the Chattahoochee or Altamaha for big cats, you might use these; in a lake, eggs or bank sinkers work fine.
Bank Sinkers: These teardrop-shaped weights with an eye are good for stationary bottom rigs (like a tight-line setup with the weight at the end and hook on a dropper loop above). They are also used on slip-bobber drift rigs.
Split Shot: For smaller cats or when float-fishing, large split shot can be used to add weight instead of an egg sinker.

Rigs: Two primary rigs:

Slip Sinker (Carolina) Rig: Slide an egg sinker on the main line, then a bead, then tie to a swivel. Attach a leader (1–2 ft) and hook. This is the classic catfish rig allowing the fish to run with minimal resistance. It’s great for both lake and river fishing. Use a bead to protect the knot from the sliding sinker. The leader is often slightly lighter pound test than mainline, so if it snags you only lose the hook.
Float Rig: For flatheads especially, anglers sometimes suspend a live bait under a large float near cover at night. Slip bobbers large enough to hold hand-size bream as bait are used, with stout line. If you try this, have bobbers 3–5 inches wide and use a 3/0–5/0 hook with a live sunfish or large shiner. Set it maybe 3–6 feet deep near a likely spot (like a fallen tree or dock at dusk). A glowing bobber or a bell on the rod can alert you to bites in the dark.

Bobbers: As mentioned, bobbers for catfish are typically large slip bobbers for specialized use (like drifting baits over structure or nighttime live bait). For most bottom fishing, you won’t use a float – you’ll let the bait sit. However, a trick for channel cats: on shallow flats at night, you can float a bait just off bottom with a bobber to cover water and find actively feeding fish. In that case, use a glow-stick float or big foam float and set the depth so bait is near bottom.

Swivels: Strong barrel swivels (size 1/0 or 3/0) are needed for big cats when using slip rigs, to handle the strain. Don’t skimp on swivel strength; a 50 lb cat will test every link in your tackle. Many premade catfish rigs use 75+ lb test swivels.

Leaders: If using braid mainline, definitely use a mono leader (e.g. 40–80 lb mono) for big cats to prevent the braid from being abraded. Even with mono main, some anglers tie a heavier mono leader to act as a rubbing leader. For instance, 20 lb main line, 30–40 lb leader. This can also allow use of sinker slides and quick-change clip rigs.

Additional Terminal Gear:

Bell sinkers or casting sinkers can be useful if you want to do a drift rig (sinker at bottom, hook on a dropper loop 1–3 ft above, slowly drift or troll to cover flats for catfish).
Bobber stops and beads if using slip floats.
If fishing multiple rods, rod holder ground stakes are essential terminal “gear” – they free your hands and secure the rod from being yanked in by a big cat. Also consider clip-on bell alarms or electronic bite alarms if you night-fish for catfish – these attach to the rod tip and jingle or buzz when a fish strikes.

Baits and Lures (by Species)

Each species responds to certain baits and lures, and these can change with the seasons. Below we outline effective live baits and artificial lures for crappie, bluegill, bass, and catfish, with notes on seasonal patterns and techniques.

Crappie Baits & Lures

Live Bait for Crappie: The standout live bait for crappie is the minnow. Small shiners, fathead minnows, or lake-run “tuffies” in the 1–2 inch range are crappie candy year-round. In Georgia, you can buy minnows by the scoop at bait shops – hook one through the lips or just behind the dorsal fin on a #4 or #6 hook and suspend under a bobber or drift it slowly. In cooler months or when crappie are deep, a minnow on a slip-float fished just above where fish are suspended is extremely effective. As one old-timer tactic goes: “minners on a gold hook” have caught crappie for generations. Live minnows shine especially in spring (during the spawn) and fall, when crappie are feeding up – it’s hard for them to resist a live baitfish in front of their nose.

Other live baits include small grass shrimp, crickets or worms, but these are more commonly used for bream. Crappie will eat insect larvae (they feed on zooplankton and bugs at times), but typically anglers stick to minnows or prepared jigs. Crappie nibble dough baits (like Berkley Crappie Nibbles) can be used to tip a jig or even on a plain hook – they add scent that can coax bites from hesitant fish, especially in cold water or when fish are feeding on tiny prey.

Artificial Lures for Crappie: Crappie are enthusiastic strikers of small jigs and lures. A variety of soft plastic crappie jigs are essential:

Tube Jigs: 1.5″ to 2″ tube jigs (hollow body) are a crappie staple. Colors like “Monkey Milk” (shad pearl) and black/chartreuse are proven producers. In fact, many anglers say you could fish nothing but chartreuse or black-chartreuse jigs and still catch tons of crappie. Tubes imitate small minnows and can be rigged on a 1/16 oz jig head.
Curly-tail Grubs: 2″ curly-tail grubs (e.g. a 2″ white or chartreuse curl-tail) on a jig head have great action. They work well casting and swimming back or vertical jigging. A top versatile pick is the Z-Man 2-inch GrubZ, known for its durable, tail-wagging design.
Marabou/Hair Jigs: Tiny feather or hair jigs (1/32 – 1/16 oz) have a lifelike breathing action. The Mr. Crappie Slab Daddy is an example of a popular hair jig. Hair jigs excel in cold water (late fall, winter) when a subtle, slow presentation is needed.
Bladed Jigs/Spinners: One legendary crappie lure is the Blakemore Road Runner – a jig head with a spinner blade attached. This combo of flash and vibration often entices crappie when a plain jig won’t. It was rated as one of the best crappie lures for 2025. Slow-roll a 1/16 oz Road Runner (with a curly grub body) near brush or along docks. Similarly, a tiny beetle spin (1/8 oz safety-pin spinner with a grub) is great for covering water in spring and locating schools.
Crankbaits & Others: Small crankbaits (1.5–2″ plugs) can catch crappie, especially larger ones. Lures like the Rapala Ultra Light Shad or Shad Rap SR5 trolled or cast can produce slab crappie. Often used in summer/fall when crappie chase shad in open water. Also, mini spinnerbaits like Strike King’s 1/8 oz Spin Baby spinnerbait are effective around shallow cover.
Dock Shooting Baits: In Georgia and the Southeast, shooting jigs under docks is a popular technique for crappie. A Bobby Garland Slab Slay’R or Baby Shad on a 1/24 oz jig head is often used for this. It was even highlighted as a top “dock-shooting” bait. If you have docks on your lake, this method (using a short rod to sling-shot a jig into the shade under the dock) can reach crappie hiding in the shadows.

Seasonal notes (Crappie):

Spring: Crappie move shallow to spawn when water warms into the 60°F range (often March–April in GA). This is prime time to cast jigs or minnows around shallow cover – think brush, shallow docks, flooded willows. Float rigs with minnows or slow-swimming a jig 2–3 ft under a bobber works great now. Have a variety of jig colors; crappie can be color-selective. Chartreuse, white, pink, and monkey milk are favorites for spring’s often stained water. Tip: A mayfly hatch can cause crappie to feed shallow on insects – don’t overlook small bug imitations (tiny tube or fly) under a float in late spring.
Summer: After spawning, crappie often relate to weed lines or deeper brush. Early summer they might hover at edges of cabbage weeds or timber in 8–12 ft. As it gets hotter, they may suspend over deeper water (e.g. 15 ft down over a 30 ft basin). In summer, go bigger or faster with presentations: 2″ grub jigs, small crankbaits, or trolling beetle spins can trigger bites from active fish. Also, night fishing around lights can be productive – crappie feed on minnows drawn to lights.
Fall: Crappie feed up in fall and can be caught on both minnows and jigs, often moving back to mid-depth ranges. They might occupy 15–25 ft depths or follow shad schools. Mini-crankbaits and soft plastics come into play a lot in fall. Continue to fish slightly above them as they will come up for a bait. 4 lb line and a 1/32 oz jig with a 1” shad body can be dynamite in autumn.
Winter: Crappie often school tightly in deep holes or suspend in basins during winter. They become more sluggish, so downsize baits and slow down. Tiny jigs tipped with bait excel. Using “small diameter line is key to drop heavy small jigs to the fish as quickly as possible” in winter, notes one crappie expert. For instance, using a 1/8 oz jigging spoon or tungsten ice jig on 2–4 lb line lets you get down 20+ feet to a school and feel light hits. If you have access, vertical jigging with a light rod over deep brush or using electronics to find schools can be very effective in the cold months. On warmer afternoons, some crappie might move up shallower on sun-warmed flats – those times you might still catch a few on a slow retrieve of a jig. But generally, winter is about deep jigging or live minnows fished very slowly.

Bluegill & Bream Baits & Lures

Live Bait for Bluegill: Live bait is king for bluegill and other sunfish (redear, etc.). The number one bluegill bait is the humble worm. Red wigglers, garden worms, or pieces of nightcrawler threaded onto a small hook will catch bluegill year-round. Use just enough worm to cover the hook – typically a 1–2 inch piece of a nightcrawler is plenty on a #8 hook. Crickets are a close second favorite, especially in the South. Many Georgia bait shops sell live crickets by the tube – toss one on a hook under a float and bluegill can’t resist. Crickets are particularly deadly in warm months and on shallow bedding bluegill (they skitter on the surface, drawing fish up).

Other effective baits: Mealworms and waxworms (excellent in colder weather or for picky fish), grasshoppers, and even small caterpillars or grubs you find can work. Some anglers chum with bread or use bits of bread dough on a tiny hook for pond bluegills – they will eat bread, but it’s a bit messier to keep on the hook. Insect larvae like maggots or even wasp larvae (if you find a nest) historically were used too. But generally, worms and crickets cover it. One key: don’t use too large a bait. A big whole nightcrawler is often ignored or pecked apart by bream – better to use a small piece so they take the hook.

If you want to get kids on fish, canned corn kernels on a small hook can catch bluegill and carp alike in ponds. It’s a good backup bait if worms run out.

Artificial Lures for Bluegill: Bluegill will strike lures, though typically smaller ones suited to their mouth size. Some fun and effective artificial options:

Small Spinners: Tiny inline spinners like Panther Martin size 0, Rooster Tails 1/16 oz (size 0 or 1), or Mepps #0 will catch aggressive bluegill and other sunfish readily. Cast near likely holding areas (weed edges, docks) and retrieve steadily. A Road Runner underspin (1/16 oz) with a curly tail is also great for bigger bream. Outdoor tip: Classic beetle spins with a 1/16 oz jighead and small grub are a multi-species pond killer – you can land bluegill, crappie, and small bass on the same lure.
Micro Jigs: 1/64 to 1/32 oz leadhead jigs with tiny tube or marabou bodies (often sold as “Trout Magnet” or similar panfish jig kits) are extremely effective. Under a float or twitched slowly, these imitate insect larvae. Bluegill often can’t resist a slowly sinking 1/64 oz hair jig that hovers in front of them. Our favorites are 1/32 oz black jigs – they mimic small aquatic bugs and have produced many fish. Tip them with a speck of worm to add scent if needed.
Poppers and Flies: If you enjoy fly fishing (or even with a bubble on spinning gear), small popping bugs or sponge spiders on the surface can be great fun for bluegill, especially in summer evenings. Bluegill readily rise to topwater bugs – a #10 popper or a foam spider twitched on calm water leads to exciting strikes. Fly anglers also use wet flies like beadhead nymphs or rubber-leg ants to fool bluegill that are feeding on insects.
Spoons and Micro-Crankbaits: Tiny spoons (1/12 oz Kastmasters or little ice fishing spoons) can jig up deep bluegill in winter. Also, mini crankbaits like the Rapala Mini Fat Rap or Rebel Crickhopper catch surprisingly large bluegill and green sunfish – they imitate small minnows or grasshoppers.
Hybrid Lures: There’s a neat rig called the “popper-dropper” – tie a small popper and attach a 2-3 ft leader to a wet fly or tiny jig. You can catch one fish on the popper and maybe another on the dropper fly!

Seasonal notes (Bluegill):

Spring (Spawn): Bluegill spawn in late spring/early summer, often around May-June in GA when water ~70°F+. They sweep circular beds in shallow, sandy areas (often dozens of beds together). During spawning, bluegill (especially males guarding nests) are very aggressive. It’s prime time to sight-fish them in 2–6 feet of water, often near the banks or on flats. Use a float and bait (worm or cricket) and cast just beyond the bed, slowly inching it over the nest – the male will attack it out of aggression. You can also catch them on small jigs or flies easily now. This is the easiest time to fill a stringer with panfish (but be mindful of limits and not overharvest from a single bedding colony).
Summer: As the weather heats up, many bluegill move slightly deeper or seek shade. Midday, they hang around weed edges, docks, deeper brush, and under undercut banks or overhanging trees. Early morning or late afternoon, they may roam shallower to feed. In ponds, a great strategy is fishing near weeds or timber in 5–10 ft with a worm suspended just off bottom. Bluegills will also school in open water if insect hatches occur, or hang around thermocline depth in lakes. Drift fishing slowly with naturally drifting bait in a river or using a slip float along weed lines in lakes can produce when they’re not on the beds. Night fishing for bluegill isn’t as common, but they will feed on bait under dock lights or any lit areas (though other species like crappie or cats often take over after dark).
Fall: As waters cool, bluegill remain active, often moving back shallower during warm afternoons. They may feed heavily, prepping for winter. Target mid-depth areas near the same spawning zones or along points leading to deeper water. Live bait still works great. You might find them near green weeds that persist into fall, or mixed with crappie schools at mid-depth.
Winter: Bluegill behavior in winter is similar to crappie albeit usually not as deep. They often gather in mid-depth (8–15 ft) water near structure or along drop-offs. They become less aggressive, so downsizing hooks (to #10) and using small baits (waxworms, mealworms) can help. They’ll still bite worms, but you may have to fish slower and right in front of them. In larger lakes, bluegill can go as deep as 15–20 ft around creek channels or brush piles in winter. A small jigging spoon or drop-shot with red worms can catch them when tightly schooled in deep holes. On mild days, check shallower rocks or pilings – the sun can warm these areas a degree or two and draw in some fish even in winter.

Bass Lures & Baits

Bass are apex predators and will strike a wide range of lures. The key is to match your lure selection to conditions and cover. Here are the core lure categories every Georgia bass angler should have, with seasonal usage notes:

Soft Plastics: The soft plastic worm (and its cousins) is arguably the most versatile bass lure:

Plastic Worms: A 6″–7″ ribbon-tail worm or straight-tail worm in natural colors (green pumpkin, watermelon) is a must. Texas-rig it with a 1/8–1/4 oz bullet weight and hop or drag it around cover – this is deadly year-round. As the GA Wildlife blog notes, the plastic worm is a “classic largemouth bait that works great in summertime”, but truly it works spring through fall. For example, a Zoom U-Tale worm in junebug or green pumpkin is a local favorite. In heavier cover or deeper water, try a 10″ worm in summer (e.g. Zoom Ol’ Monster) with a 3/8 oz weight to entice lunkers.
Lizards & Creatures: Lizards (salamander imitations) like the Zoom 6″ lizard are especially noted for spring, as bass often attack them fiercely during spawning season (thought to eat eggs). A Texas-rigged Zoom lizard (6″, green pumpkin or watermelon-candy) with a 1/4 oz weight is recommended for working around shallow cover and bedding areas. Also, creature baits (brush hogs, craws) in 4″ sizes pitched into brush or under docks can draw big bites.
Senko-style Sticks: Yamamoto Senko or similar stick worms (5″) rigged weightless (wacky or Texas) are pond magic. Cast around any likely spot and let it sink slowly – bass inhale it on the fall. Use natural colors in clear water, darker in murky.
Flukes and Minnow Baits: Soft jerkbaits like the Zoom Super Fluke (5″) mimic shad – great in reservoirs like Lanier or ponds with shad/fallfish. Fish weightless near the surface in spring/fall or on a jig head for deeper darting action.
Finesse Plastics: In tough conditions, finesse worms (4″ straight worms), Ned rig plastics (TRDs), or drop-shot baits can save the day. For example, in cold front conditions a 4″ finesse worm on a 1/8 oz shakey head, or a Ned rig jighead with a short stick worm, can coax neutral bass to bite.

Crankbaits: These hard plastic lures mimic baitfish or crawfish and have a diving lip. Have a selection of:

Shallow Cranks: For ponds or shallow flats (0–4 ft), use a squarebill crankbait (like a KVD 1.5 in a shad or bream pattern). Squarebills deflect off wood well and trigger reaction strikes.
Medium Divers: A medium-diving crank (dives 5–8 ft) like a Bomber Model A or Rapala DT-6 covers mid-depth stump fields or points. In summer/fall, when bass go a bit deeper, a deep diver (DT-10, 6XD) reaching 10–15 ft can be key on lake ledges or hump edges.
Lipless Crankbaits: Rat-L-Traps or similar lipless cranks (1/2 oz) are great for covering water, ripping through grass, or winter fishing by yo-yoing them. A chrome/blue rattletrap in shad-heavy lakes or a gold/black in tannic waters are staples.

Spinnerbaits & Buzzbaits: These are fantastic “search” lures, especially around cover:

Spinnerbaits: A 3/8 oz spinnerbait with double willowleaf blades (white or white/chartreuse skirt) is a proven pond/lake bait. It works year-round but especially in spring and fall when bass chase baitfish. The GA article suggests a double-willow spinnerbait as a go-to for pond bass, particularly around dam corners or bream beds in summer. Slow-roll it near structure or bulge it under the surface to draw strikes. Colorado-blade spinnerbaits (which thump more) are good in murky water or at night.
Buzzbaits: Topwater buzzbaits excel in low-light conditions (dawn, dusk, cloudy days) and warm water. A 1/4 oz buzzbait in white or chartreuse is recommended for pond fishing – a softer, subtler “bubbling” buzzbait is preferred over loud clackers in calm pond settings. Run it along shorelines and over shallow flats at first light for explosive strikes. If a bass misses the buzzbait, follow up with a different topwater or worm as they may strike again.

Topwater Lures: There’s nothing like a topwater blow-up. Key topwaters:

Poppers: A Rebel Pop-R (2″ popper) is a classic for calm mornings/evenings. It’s noted as a must-have subtle topwater in ponds – twitch it near overhanging cover for numbers of bass.
Prop Baits: Lures like the Bagley Bang-O-Lure Spintail (a minnow with a rear prop) are famed for coaxing big bass in small waters. The trick is to twitch and pause, letting the prop rings settle – this was specifically recommended in a chartreuse bluegill pattern for GA ponds.
Walkers: “Walking” topwaters (Zara Spook, Heddon Spook Jr., etc.) in shad or frog patterns are great on larger lakes when bass chase shad, especially early morning. They require more open water to be effective (they have a wide side-to-side action).
Frogs: In weedy lakes or ponds with lily pads, a hollow-bodied frog (e.g. Booyah Pad Crasher, green or black color) is indispensable in summer. Work it across pads and pause in openings – heart-stopping strikes ensue. Use stout tackle and braided line for frogs.

Jigs: Bass jigs tipped with trailers catch quality fish. A 3/8 oz flipping jig in black/blue or green pumpkin, with a matching craw trailer, is a year-round big bass bait. Flip or pitch it to wood, docks, or rocky banks and hop it– it mimics a crawfish. In colder water, a finesse jig (1/4 oz) with a smaller profile can entice lethargic bass. Also consider swim jigs with a boot-tail trailer to swim through grass for a more subtle presentation than a spinnerbait.

Others:

Chatterbaits (bladed jigs): These have become popular – a 3/8 oz ChatterBait in white or bluegill color, with a swimbait trailer, is excellent around grass for active bass.
Soft Swimbaits: A 4″ or 5″ paddle-tail swimbait (e.g. Keitech) on a belly-weight hook or jighead is a great shad imitator for covering mid-depth water.
Jerkbaits: In cooler months, suspending hard jerkbaits (e.g. Rapala X-Rap, Lucky Craft Pointer) in shad patterns can be deadly for bass feeding on shad, especially in clear reservoirs. Not as commonly used in ponds, but in open water situations they shine.

Live Bait for Bass: While most bass anglers prefer lures, live bait can be very effective, especially for large bass. Live shad or shiners are top choices – a frisky 4–6″ shiner under a float near a likely ambush spot can tempt a trophy largemouth. Some anglers in GA also use small live bluegill or green sunfish (where legal) – flatheads aren’t the only fish that love bluegills! If using live bluegill, a common rig is a sturdy bobber, a 2/0 hook through the back, and let it swim near cover at dusk. Bass will also take nightcrawlers, though usually you’ll catch many other species too (bream, catfish) with worms out. A large wild shiner is more selective for big bass.

Seasonal notes (Bass):

Spring: Prespawn bass (late Feb–March in GA) start shallow – this is prime time for slow-rolled spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and jerkbaits as fish stage near points and creek channels. As they spawn (April-ish), sight-fishing with lizards or creature baits on beds can work (if you practice catch and release). During spawn, a lightly weighted lizard dragged through a bedding area will draw strikes out of aggression. Postspawn (late spring), topwaters like poppers and walking baits pick up as bass feed on bluegill that are spawning.
Summer: Early morning and late evening topwater bites are great (buzzbaits, frogs, poppers). A GA tactic is to parallel the bank at daybreak with a buzzbait to grab active shallow bass before the sun is high. Once the sun is up, bass often go deeper or into thick cover. Midday summer, switch to bottom baits: Texas-rig worms, jigs pitched into shade (under docks, into brush, or deep weedlines). Also, fishing the deep end of pond dams or drop-offs can be productive – bass often hang where shallow and deep water meet. Summertime also brings night fishing for bass on some lakes – slow-rolling a black spinnerbait or crawling a jig after dark can yield big fish in the cooler hours.
Fall: Bass feed heavily on shad or baitfish schools in fall. This is prime time for moving lures – crankbaits, spinnerbaits, rattletraps, swimbaits. Look for baitfish flickering and target those areas. Topwaters come back into play on warm afternoons or late fall warm spells. As water cools toward winter, slow down and possibly shift to jerkbaits and finesse presentations.
Winter: Bass in winter are lethargic but can still be caught. They often hold on deep structure (ledge, brush pile, channel) and won’t chase far. Go with jigs, drop-shot worms, or jigging spoons worked slowly in deeper holes. A classic winter approach is a suspending jerkbait fished with long pauses, mimicking dying shad – it can catch big bass in clear lakes during the cold months. Also, a blade bait or lipless crankbait slowly yo-yoed off the bottom can trigger bites from schooled up bass. In small ponds, bass might group in the deepest part; a subtle presentation like a Ned rig on bottom could work when nothing else does. Dress warmly and fish slowly – winter bass fishing is tougher, but the fish you catch are often quality size.

Catfish Baits & Techniques

Natural Baits for Catfish: Catfish are primarily scent feeders and scavengers, so stinky, natural baits are the go-to. The best catfish baits in Georgia include:

Worms: Nightcrawlers or big red worms are great for channel cats and bullheads. They have scent, motion, and every catfish will eat a worm. Use a gob of nightcrawler on a 1/0 hook for pan-size cats. This is a top bait for numbers of fish, though it might catch more modest-sized cats on average.
Chicken Liver: Perhaps the most famous channel cat bait. Chicken livers (fresh, not too rotten) tied on with a piece of pantyhose or a bait wrap to keep it on the hook will release a blood/oil scent trail cats love. Best fished on the bottom with little current. It’s a bit messy (bring a rag) but very effective, especially in ponds. Many GA anglers bring a tub of livers for summer catfishing evenings.
Stink Baits & Dough Baits: Prepared stink baits (also called dip baits or punch baits) like Sonny’s, Catfish Charlie, or Magic Bait are formulated to attract channel cats. You use either a treble hook with a sponge or a ribbed plastic worm designed to hold the bait. Dip it in the tub to coat it and cast out. These baits can be deadly when cats are actively feeding – they are convenient for channel cats in warm water. Another variant is blood bait or cheese bait that comes in tubes or bait balls. Follow the product instructions; usually a special hook or dip tube is used. As GA WRD notes, prepared stink baits are among the best for channel cats.
Cut Bait: For bigger channel cats and certainly for blues, cut fish is top-notch. Cut bait means pieces of fish – often threadfin or gizzard shad (common in GA reservoirs), herring, or even cut bluegill (check regulations on using gamefish as bait – in GA you can use bream caught legally on rod & reel as bait). Cut shad is considered prime bait for large blue catfish. The oily scent of cut bait travels far. Use chunks sized to your target: a 1″ chunk for channels, or a big head piece/fillet for trophy blues. Fresh is best – a freshly caught shad or panfish chunk will outfish old frozen bait typically.
Live Bait: Live fish are the bait of choice for flathead catfish, which prefer live prey. A live bluegill 4–6″ or small bullhead or shiner works for flatheads (flatheads can exceed 40–50 lbs in GA and they eat substantial live meals). Rig it on a strong hook and heavy tackle, and usually no bobber (let it swim on a bottom rig near cover). For trophy blues, large live shad or river herring can work, though blues readily take cut bait too. Channels will also take live minnows or small fish, but it’s usually not as necessary – they’ll happily eat cut or stink bait.
Shrimp & Other: Raw shrimp (grocery store shrimp) on a hook can catch channel cats pretty well – it has strong scent. Some swear by it, even adding garlic or kool-aid to “flavor” it. Hot dogs soaked in attractants (like strawberry Kool-Aid and garlic) is a well-known cheap pond catfish bait that actually works – it’s not “natural” but the scent draws cats. Chicken gizzards or cut poultry can work in a pinch (soaked in some blood).
Unusual baits: Soap (Ivory soap bars cut into cubes) historically was used for catfish, as was rotten cheese, etc. You probably won’t need those given the above options.

Which bait when: If specifically targeting big flatheads – go live (live bream or large shiners) at night near logjams, as “flatheads are ambush predators that prey heavily on fish”, so using live or freshly killed fish greatly increases your odds. For big blues – fresh cut bait (gizzard shad especially) is ideal. For general channel cat fishing for eating-size fish – chicken livers, worms, or dip bait will do great.

Presentation & Seasonal Tips (Catfish):

Spring: Catfish become active as water warms. Early spring (March) can be very good for channels in warming shallow coves, especially after rains (incoming tributaries bring food scent). Try fishing cut bait or worms on mud flats adjacent to deep water. Spawn for channel cats occurs late spring to early summer; during spawning (when water ~75°F, typically May/June in GA), catfish (especially channel cats) might be less interested in feeding as males guard nests. But post-spawn, a strong feed resumes.
Summer: Summer is peak catfish time. The “best bite typically from early spring through the peak of summer”. In summer, many anglers fish at dusk and nighttime, since catfish, especially big ones, roam shallow flats and shorelines more freely in the dark or low light. A common approach: set up near a known drop-off or hole, cast multiple rods baited with different offerings (one with liver, one with cut bait, one with worms) and wait. As mentioned, evening into night see increased activity – “the best summer fishing is at dusk and during the night” for catfish. If you fish in daylight in summer, target deeper holes or fish in shade/cover (catfish might hold in timber snags or under deep rock ledges by day, moving shallow at night).
Fall: Catfish feed well in fall to fatten up for winter. Channels will still take all the usual baits. Often, they might roam mid-depth flats during the day in fall more than the heat of summer. You can have success in daylight with cut bait on humps or channel ledges. Cooler nights may reduce their shallow roaming a bit compared to summer, but generally fall is a productive time. Continue using lively baits for flatheads until it gets cold – flatheads will slow down as temperatures drop.
Winter: Catfish can be caught year-round in GA, but cold water slows them. They often hunker in deep holes in daytime (in rivers, look for the deepest outside bend holes; in lakes, deep channels or basins). “Catfish will stay in deep areas or ‘holes’ during the day”, then move shallower at night even in winter but perhaps not as shallow as summer. Downsizing bait can help for channels in winter (they might not want a huge piece, but they’ll still pick up smaller cut bait or worms). Blue catfish actually have a good winter bite on many reservoirs – anglers drift cut bait slowly along deep channel ledges to catch blues in colder months. For bank fishing winter cats, target the deepest accessible water, fish patiently with cut bait, and be attentive to subtle bites (use rod holders or have a finger on the line; winter bites can be gentle).

Chumming and Scent: One way to improve catfishing is “souring” some grain (fermented wheat, milo, etc.) and chumming an area to attract cats. Some public fishing areas allow it – check local rules. It can draw in channels for a better bite. Also, fish where water is moving if possible – catfish use currents to find food. For example, near a flowing inflow or below a dam (with proper access) can be hotspots as scent is carried to them.

Tools & Accessories

Outfitting yourself with a few essential tools and accessories will make your fishing more efficient and enjoyable. Here are important items to include in your tackle kit, regardless of species:

Pliers / Forceps: A quality pair of fishing pliers or hemostats is a must for removing hooks (especially from toothy or deeply hooked fish). Bluegill and crappie have small mouths, so a slender hemostat helps reach in to unhook without injuring the fish. For bass and catfish, a sturdier needle-nose plier works for popping out hooks or pinching sinkers. Pliers also cut light wire, crimp split shot, and have myriad uses. Many anglers carry a multitool style fishing plier that includes line cutters.
Line Cutters: While pliers often have cutting jaws, some anglers prefer a dedicated line clipper. Fingernail clippers or small scissors on a retractable zinger make snipping tag ends or cutting line quick and easy. This is especially helpful when re-tying often (which you should, if line gets frayed).
Landing Net: A landing net is important when targeting larger fish like bass or catfish. Choose a net size to suit the fish – a rubber or coated mesh net about 18–22″ hoop is great all-purpose for bass and big crappie. For truly large catfish, you might need a big hoop net or plan to land by hand/gripper. Nets prevent losing fish right at the dock or shore. For panfish, you can often lift them by the line, but a net is still handy if you hook a surprise bass or just to avoid handling fish too much.
Fish Grip or Glove: Catfish have spines on their pectoral and dorsal fins that can poke, and their griping mouth pads can be abrasive on large specimens. A lip grip tool (like a BogaGrip or plastic fish grip) lets you secure a catfish by the jaw safely. Alternatively, a durable glove (or just careful technique) for holding a catfish by the lower jaw or behind the fins can help control it while de-hooking. These are more for larger catfish; small ones can be hand-held with caution to avoid the spines.
Stringer / Cooler: If you plan to keep fish to eat (crappie, catfish, bluegill are all excellent table fare), have a means to store them humanely. A fish stringer (nylon rope or chain style) allows you to keep fish alive in the water until you’re done. In warm weather, a cooler with ice might be better to immediately chill the catch. For a boat, a livewell or cooler works; on shore, a stringer tied to the dock is common.
Tackle Storage: Use a tackle box or tackle bag with trays to organize hooks, bobbers, weights, and lures by species/category. Small plastic compartment boxes are great to keep panfish tackle separate from bass tackle, etc., so you can grab what you need easily.
Lighting: If fishing at night (especially for catfish), bring a headlamp or flashlight. A headlamp frees your hands for tying knots or unhooking fish in the dark. Some also use glow sticks on bobbers or rod tips for bite detection at night.
Miscellaneous: Don’t forget spare line (carry an extra filler spool of your common line sizes in case of a lot of retying or a bad tangle). Bobber stops, beads, swivels, extra hooks – replenish these as they run low. A measuring tape or ruler is good for checking fish length (Georgia has length limits on some bass waters). A small digital scale is fun for weighing a big bass or catfish. Split-ring pliers and hook file are more specialized, but could be in a bass angler’s kit for maintaining lures. Sunscreen, bug spray, polarized sunglasses, and a hat are important personal items for comfort and safety in the Georgia sun. And of course, a first aid kit or at least some band-aids, because hooks happen!